Hang Ten

I have always admired surfers, and enjoy watching them as they paddle out into the deep waters to catch waves. I could probably manage to learn to balance on a surfboard, and even possibly catch a wave or two, but surfers also go out very deep into the ocean waters. Where sharks swim. I don't like sharks and therefore my likelihood of ever wanting to learn to surf are slim. I will enjoy the beach and cheer on anyone else doing it, but I'll stick to running on land as my thing. We can love our own thing and still have a great appreciation for what others love.
I was debating over writing the post forming in my mind about surfing as I opened my laptop, yesterday when I began writing, to discover it was the 125th birthday of Duke Kahanamoku; "The Father of Modern Surfing".  http://www.dukekahanamoku.com/

I would be silly to not recognize that as a sign, so surf's up!

Many things which look easy once mastered by others, are not a bit easy to actually do ourselves. Surfing is definitely one of those things. I am not a surfer, as I mentioned, so this is more of a "surfing for dummies" type of post. I am not writing to help anyone learn more about surfing, but rather what I understand of it, and how its principles relate to have soulful success in life as well.

1. Surfers embrace the moment.
Most surfers are known as generally laid-back people. You know what the stereotype is, "Duuuuude". There is a great understanding, once someone can become one with something as massively powerful as the ocean, of the bigger picture in life which helps attain ease in the soul of a human being. If you stop and think about it, most great spiritual leaders of positivity and enlightenment possess the same understanding.

2. Surfers respect the power of the ocean (as something greater than themselves).
If you are going to take a ginormous board into the ocean with you and nothing else, you had better understand and respect what you are, literally, getting into. The ocean floor is made of constantly shifting sand which in turn causes waves to rise and crash intermittently. The waves alone are something to contend with, never mind riptides and sea creatures. Surfers do not enter the water to be greater than it, they enter it to become a part of it. There are too many people walking the earth who believe they are greater than it, and not accepting their role as merely an organism contributing to the greater organism; our planet. The planet is able to do the same thing the ocean can do to surfers, swallow them up or spit them out. We need to respect what is greater than ourselves, and not be arrogant beings. Our survival depends upon it.

3.You have to decide you want it more than you are afraid of it.
I mentioned above that I have an issue with possibly getting eaten by sharks. In order for me to learn to surf, I must overcome that fear. The only way to overcome that fear is for my desire to surf to become greater than my fear of becoming shark food. This is one of the biggest and most important points, and it relates back to my most recent previous post. If we never get into the water, we will never catch a wave. I may never learn to surf, but there definitely some big life-waves I need to catch to fulfill my dreams. I have to get into the water though, and not let my fear keep me from my big waves.

4. Surfers accept that they will be beat up by the waves, and they must keep paddling.
Surfers paddle pretty far out into the ocean in order to catch the larger, surf-worthy, waves. Getting in and out of the water is one of the most dangerous parts of surfing, because of the waves in the break zone. Most of us are familiar with this section of the ocean from our family vacations to the beach. We know that even one or two feet of water can produce a wave strong enough to knock us off our feet. Surfers must paddle on their boards through these rough waves, and the larger the waves in the waters, the stronger the break zone usually is. What an obvious yet poignant metaphor for life it is; never stop paddling until you get through the break zone. Life can feel like the break zone more than most of us enjoy. We cannot make it to the calmer waters by allowing ourselves to be pummeled by the break zone, we must keep paddling until we are through it. Even if we arrive with water up our nose and have been tossed around to the point of discomfort. There are always calmer waters beyond the break zone where surfers stop to rest and float until the green, or unbroken, waves begin to form.

5. Always fall flat and protect your head.
When you know you are going to wipe out, which is inevitable from time-to-time, the rule is to fall flat and protect your head. You don't want to dive or go feet first, because you never know what is beneath you in the water. You do not want to dive head or feet first into anything dangerous, such as shallow water, or rocks. Falling flat and covering your head ensures that you will allow your body to be carried along with the force of the water while protecting your head from being harmed by an ocean floor, or your surf board. Sometimes we wipe out in life too, and until we know what we are dealing with, or where we are going to end up; basic safety needs to prevail before we can figure out how to get back on track.

6. If a wave is too big to be hit by, get underneath it.
This is especially true in the break zone. Sometimes there are waves coming at us that are so huge we cannot paddle through them. They are stronger than we are, they are perhaps even dangerous. When the surface is too rough in the ocean, it is always calmer below. Life can throw some really crazy stuff our way. Sometimes we see it coming and can duck below the surface to protect ourselves the best we are able. We may still get tossed around a bit in the water, but it is never as bad as being hit full-on by a strong wall of water. When life hits us unexpectedly, revert to rule number four and fall flat as you cover your head.


7. First to the crest goes first.
Once you beat the heavy waves, you reach the calm seas and have a while to relax, catch your breath, and prepare to catch a wave you can surf back to shore. If you have ever watched a group of surfers waiting out in the water, you may have noticed there is surfer etiquette, as it is not safe for everyone to try to catch the same wave at the same time. The surfers will line up and the surfer closest to the crest, which is the beginning swell of a green (unbroken) wave, goes first. Again, sometimes in life we have fought our way through the break zone and are ready and waiting for the wave we want to catch, and it is not our turn. We may miss the wave we should have ridden, or we may have to keep floating on our boards and watch many others catch their waves until it is our turn. I am an admitted late bloomer and I often wonder when it is going to be my turn at the crest. I have watched tons of others catch and ride some amazing waves and I am eager for it to be my turn. Until then though, I must submit to the surfers ahead of me, and patiently float on my board.


8. Be Ready.
When it is finally your turn at the crest, you better be ready to catch your wave. This is the only time you turn around, because you are now going to paddle with the wave, and jump on your board to take control. Getting into a standing position on one's surfboard, from lying on one's belly, is known as the pop-up. It requires a quick and well practiced motion of full body control. Once a surfer has 'popped-up', they must be in the proper stance of bent knees, and outstretched arms, in order to maintain balance and counter the motion of the water. The action of popping up and proper stance are best practiced many times on dry land before being attempted in the water. Once in the water, these moves should be practiced before attempting to catch a wave. Life is usually easier and more enjoyable when we are prepared and properly trained as well. Whatever life-goal it is that you may have, make sure you are as informed and trained as you are able so when your wave comes, you are ready to ride it to the best of your ability.

9. Let go, and enjoy the ride.
You have gained an understanding of the powers greater than you. You have taken the beating by the break zone. You have wiped out, protected your head, and learned to duck the huge waves when you see them coming. You have practiced endless pop-ups and perfected your stance of bent knees and ever-reaching arms. You have waited and waited in the peaceful waters for your turn at the crest. Your wave has finally arrived and you have done everything possible to be ready. You swim along with the beginning of the swell and pop-up in perfect timing just as the wave begins to break. Now is when you let go and enjoy the ride. It is not that you are not in control of yourself and your board, but you are suddenly working in tandem with the power of the wave. Instead of it pushing you around, you are using its momentum for your own use, of absolute pleasure. If you ever see a surfer who has just caught a good wave, you can often see the definition of exhilaration on their face. We often work so hard in life to reach our goals, whatever they may be, but once we achieve them we forget to enjoy the ride. Which is insane. You would never see a surfer go through all of that and not enjoy riding their wave. We should take heed of that message as well and remember that we have worked hard and are allowed to enjoy riding the waves.

10. Every day on the water is a good day.
Surfers are known for getting out on the water as often as they are able. Not every wave is surfed back to shore, not every wave is the huge pipeline dream-wave of epic surfer movies, but every day is still a good day on the water. I have not caught my dream-wave yet, but I sure have caught some good waves along the way so far. We need to appreciate the waves we have been able to enjoy riding. Society tells us if we aren't riding the big waves we are not a success. I dare suggest if we are able to enjoy the smaller waves, we are an even bigger success. Some days, I know I am just happy to be at the beach and have no interest in catching any waves.

I hope this metaphorical surfing post has helped anyone at all. Of all the points listed, I am going to leave you with one last thought, and it is probably the most important: Life is not a surfing competition. Not every wave is meant to be surfed, and not every wave is meant for us. Catch the ones you can, go after the ones you really want, and most of all, enjoy the journey. Even when you are in the break zone. We are not able to stop the waves from coming, but we can absolutely learn to surf.
Hang ten my friends. Thanks for reading.